Jamie and the Turkey Twizzlers
Article reprinted from Pure Facts July/August 2005
British parents and educators have learned a lot about school foods recently and the uproar has reached all the way to 10 Downing Street.
Celebrity chef Jamie Oliver has put the spotlight on a long-kept secret - that the food most schools provide for their students is dreadful, with the Turkey Twizzler being held up as a symbol of all that is wrong with the lunches.
One nutritionist described a Twizzler as "full of mechanically reclaimed turkey, every part of the bird you wouldn't eat if you knew what it was." It has been described as resembling "the innersole of a shoe, so untextured and so tasteless that without a good deal of additives it would taste of nothing and would fall apart at the first touch."
By the time Oliver began filming a TV series on England's school kitchens, the government allowance for a child's lunch was less than half of what was spent on a prisoner's meal and less than half of what France and Italy spend on feeding their children.
How did things get so bad?
Like school foods in the U.S., British school food programs started out with the best of intentions. England began a school lunch program in 1906. Years later the National Health Service promoted nutritious food for mothers and infants by providing free milk, orange juice and cod liver oil. School foods were required to follow strict nutritional standards. When the Thatcher government came to power in the late 1970s, these programs were the victims of cost-cutting. The changes were hailed under the slogans of "parental choice" and "no nanny state." The government began awarding contracts to the lowest bidder, and traditional foods were replaced by Twizzlers, sugary drinks, fries and chocolate bars. (Scotland, however, banned Twizzlers years ago.)
Political damage-control
As Chef Oliver was preparing to show up at the Prime Minister's door with a "Feed Me Better" petition and 271,000 signatures, the government quickly assembled a package of sweeping reforms and 220 million pounds to fund them. "It's certainly very positive," Oliver commented, "Twenty years too late, but we're talking about the right sort of money."
Despite the hasty government initiatives, change might not come quickly. A school meals task force is not expected to have nutrition standards ready until September of 2007. The reforms can be delayed by long-term contracts many of the schools have with the companies providing the junky food.
Healthy initiatives
Some schools didn't wait for the Twizzler crisis to peak, but have made changes and seen positive results. Our Lady of Grace primary school in London got rid of the chicken nuggets and fries in favor of lamb casseroles and salads and find that discipline problems are way down, and test scores way up. Teachers see children who are no longer sleepy and irritable after lunch. One teacher notes "They just feel happier rather than uptight."
Children are calmer and test scores are up.Saint Barnabas School in Worcestershire reported dramatic improvements in the students after they removed dyes and preservatives from their school food. Teachers at the Windsor High School in Halesowen have noticed that the students are calmer after they removed vending machine junk food.
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